Acne and Cosmetics

Many cosmetics on the market today contain various comedogenic ingredients. A comedogenic ingredient is basically something that will clog your pores. If these chemicals/oils are put onto the skin of someone who is acne prone, they will most likely experience breakouts. Even individuals that would not have otherwise developed acne can experience “cosmetic acne” due to use of comedogenic products.

Unfortunately it is not always easy to distinguish what makeup products will cause acne. Even if the product claims to be oil free it may contain synthetic oils that can clog pores. Also, it is difficult to know if your makeup is causing your acne, since breakout may not appear for up to 6 months after you have started using the product!

So what should you do to protect yourself? Here are a few rules to follow:

1. Check Ingredients: Do not rely on the company to tell you if something is oil-free or non-comedogenic, read through their ingredient list for comedogenic ingredients.
   
   

   A list of the most common comedogenic ingredients:

   
   
   • Acetylated Lanolin
   • Algae Extract
   • Butyl Sterate
   • Cocoa Butter
   • Coconut Butter
   • Coconut Oil
   • Colloidal Sulfur
   • Corn Oil
   • D & C Red #17,21,3
   • Glyceryl Stearate SE
   • Isocetyl Stearate
   • Isopropyl Isostearate
   • Isopropyl Myristate
   • Isopropyl Palmitate
   • Laureth 23, 4
   • Lauric Acid
   • Myristic Acid
   • Octyl Palmitate
   • Octyl Stearate
   • Oleth-3
   • PEG 75 Lanolin
   • PEG 16 Lanolin
   • PEG 8 Stearate
   • Propylene Glycol Monostearate
   • Sodium Chloride
   • Sodium Laureth Sulfate
   • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
   • Soybean Oil
   • Wheat Germ Oil
   
   
2. Do the oil migration test for foundations and other creams!- once you have purchased a foundation or concealer that you think does not contain any comedogenic ingredients you can test the product using a simple oil-migration test. Smear a bit of the product on a sheet of white paper and wait 24 hours. Then, hold the paper up to the light and notice the ring of oil that has migrated around the cosmetic. The bigger the ring the more oil the product contains!
   
   * I believe that all foundations and concealers will form a ring, try to find one with the smallest ring possible. My advice is to go to various makeup counters at a department store and ask for samples of their oil-free foundations. You can then take these home and test them to compare.
   
   
3. Use the right blush- Never use cream blushes and only apply a blush that contains the dye Carmine, other dyes (like D&C Red) are very comedogenic.
   
   
4. Stay away from glitter- Glitter is often achieved with the mica mineral, something that is very irritating and can clog pores. They often sneak mica into blushes to give your skin a shimmery glow but this is very harmful to acne prone skin.
   
   
5. Lipsticks can cause pimples around your mouth- make sure your lipstick does not contain isopropyl myristate and use a lip-liner to keep lipstick from migrating onto your skin.
   
   
6. The fewer products the better- try to limit your use of cosmetics as much as possible since almost all products will migrate into your pores to some extent.
   
   
7. Wash your hands before applying anything to your skin!
   
   

Foundations to Try:

1. mark. - Dab Action Face Clearing Foundation ($8)
   
   Description: This foundation claims to be oil-free and gives a matte finish.
   
   Active Ingredients:
   salicylic acid
   
   Other Ingredients (not in order):
   salix nigra (willow) bark extract, salvia officinalis (sage) leaf extract, silica, sodium hexametaphosphate, sorbitan stearate, steareth-2, steareth-21, tetrasodium edta, isopropylparaben, laminaria saccharina extract, lecithin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium carbonate, melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) extract, methylparaben, phenoxyethanol, phenyl trimethicone, polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, propylene glycol isoceteth-3 acetate, retinyl palmitate, tocopherol, triethanolamine, trisodium edta, water, xanthan gum, zinc pca, acrylate/carbamate copolymer, acrylates copolymer, aluminum starch octenysuccinate, ascorbyl palmitate, beta-carotene, boron nitride, butylene glycol, c12-15 alkyl benzoate, crataegus monogina fruit extract, dimethicone, ethylhexyl palmitate, fragrance, geranium maculatum extract, glyceryl stearate, hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) extract, hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate May Contain : iron oxides, titanium dioxide
   
   
2. Bobbi Brown - Oil-Free Even Finish, SPF 15 ($38)
   
   Description: This foundation claims to 100% oil-free and to contain an anti-reddening agent.
   
   Ingredients: Unavailable (I am currently looking into this, please contact me if you have them)
   
   
3. Laura Mercier - Oil-Free Foundation ($40)
   
   Description: This foundation claims to be oil-free. I have used this product and I found that it does contain a very small amount of oil (using the oil migration test), however it is much less then most foundations. The foundation is lightweight but good coverage can be achieved by layering. I can not fully recommend it because I don't wear it often (I got Warm Ivory and the color is too dark for my pale skin). I have had no problems with it so far.
   
   Ingredients: Water, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Talc, Kaolin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Capric Triglyceride, Trielhanolamine, Polysorbate 20, Squalane, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sorbitan Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Oleic Acid, Methylparaben, Cocoyl Sarcosine, Trisodium EDTA, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Aloe Leaf Juice, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Butylparaben, Retinyl Palmitate, Xantham Gum, Ascorbic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben. May contain: Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Iron Oxides, Ultramarines
   
   
4. What works for me:
   I have been using Chanel - Double Perfection Cream Poudre SPF 15 for the last 6 months and it has not caused me to have any breakouts (I would only trust something I have been using for at least 4 months).